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2007-12-02 - 6:03 p.m. I'm now back in Johannesburg. I had a sore throat -- which, unfairly or not, I blame on the hotel generator exploding and throwing off all manner of black smoke back in Tana -- so I spent much of the flight sucking on obscure Malagasy cough "pastilles." When I got to the hostel, I pretty much went straight to sleep until it was time for dinner. The cook had called to cancel, which was just as well, since I had no appetite and ended up nibbling on a few peanut butter crackers while watching the sunset. The Spotted Eagle Owl returned immediately after the sunset and made several circuits of the property. A grey morph, with flashing yellow eyes. He even tried to perch for a time on the telephone pole, but the local small stuff wasn't going to tolerate an owl sitting out in the open like that. For some reason my camera refuses to photograph that owl, and last night's excuse was "battery empty." Argh. I went to bed early and slept late, and now my throat is pretty much healed. In the morning I strolled over to the mall, where I had a brunch at a restaurant where I suspect that the waiter would not have looked very, very sad if I had asked for two ice cubes instead of one. But, in the event, the question didn't arise, since I had a bottle of sparkling mineral water for my table and a glass of white wine to accompany my Indonesian chicken breast. It cost around 90 rand, with the tip, which seems absurdly cheap. To make up for it, though, the paperback books from the mall bookstore seem absurdly costly. In the afternoon I went on a "city tour" with a group of other ladies and went up 50 stories in a skyscraper to the "Top of Africa" for an overview of the city. Beautiful views. Beautiful weather. However, some of the questions asked were so inane I was ready to tear my hair. Example, regarding a neighborhood we were not advised to visit on foot: "You have these beautiful government buildings here, so why isn't it safe for white people to walk here?" I mean, wtf kind of question is that? What does she expect him to say? Life is unfair, lady, get over it? A few steps after the stupid question in question was asked, we observed a glue sniffer stumbling down the street while he continued to indulge. I hope that answered her question but who knows. We also visited the Museum of Africa, which I don't especially recommend. It was a very...eclectic museum. As in I'm wandering around looking at the timeline of life on earth or Africa or whatever, in between the endless displays of hats and handbags. Then there's an old mud hut with thatched roof -- supposedly a copy of the housing in J'burg c. 1500 although far sturdier and better built than the similar structures I just saw all over rural Madagascar. Past the mud hut was then a display of stockings, including some hot pink Yves Saint Laurent stockings circa 1970. I honestly felt like I'd stumbled into someone's private joke. I'm meeting the bird guide at 4:30 AM tomorrow morning. My flight departs sometime around 11 PM tonight. I have a feeling I won't need much of that business class champagne to fall into a deep sleep.
All Rights Reserved, Copyright 2002-2017 by Elaine Radford
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