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southern arkansas trip report part 3: heart-shaped hot tub

2004-04-23 - 11:40 a.m.

Note: This is part three of our southern Arkansas trip report. For part one, the secret wedding, click here. For part two, explosion at the butterfly factory, click here.

all photos © 2004
by Elaine Radford and Roger Williams

hot tub viewed from overhead mirror

Thursday, April 15

Did I mention that we had the best room in the house, called the Governor's Room, at our bed and breakfast? I know I mentioned all the stained glass. Yeah, that's the classic honeymooner's hot tub with the mirror overhead. The house was built in 1903:

gables inn exteriori

It is beautifully decorated with the frou-frou of that era:

parlor at gables in, hot springs, arkansas

detail, cherub lamp, gables inn, hot springs

However, we noticed a few nods to the modern taste for irony. For instance, a revolver was provided on an end table in the Governor's Room, no doubt to provide a fluttery moment of hope if you were tempted to change your mind about your recent wedding. On closer inspection, the revolver proved to be an Avon bottle!

We also noticed that dozens of teddy bears, in every stage of life from hopeful bride and groom to grim young private, were distributed over the house. Here's the one I call "the overwhelmed young mother," although she might just as well be a babysitter at a wedding:

overwhelmed mother bear

And here's the prosperous widow:

not-so-merry rich widow bear

You could spend hours poking around and never stop finding new bears.

Anyway, after a huge breakfast of fruit followed by blueberry French toast with a cream cheese filling, we had more than enough calories to fuel another hike up Hot Springs Mountain. Near the base, we saw the cutest thing -- a White-Throated Sparrow bathing in the steaming hot springs with obvious pleasure. For some reason, it never occurred to me that birds could enjoy the thermal waters. A bit higher, we encountered a very confiding White-Breasted Nuthatch, who did his thing on tree trunks closer and closer to us by the minute. At the summit, we went up in the tower, where we saw Red-Shouldered Hawk, Red-Tailed Hawk, and of course good old-fashioned Turkey Vulture enjoying the beautiful spring day. Here's our B&B from the tower:

gables inn from hot springs mountain tower

If you look behind the flat-topped building, which is the synagogue, near the center of the photograph, you can see the Gables Inn.

And, since turnabout is fair play, here's the tower from the Inn:

hot springs mountain tower from gables inn

After our hike, we took a "Duck" tour of the Hot Springs area. A "Duck" is an amphibious vehicle from the 1940s which drives on land, right down the boat ramp, and then motors around on the water. We took a spin around Lake Hamilton.

In the afternoon, we explored five different rock shops. By far the most impressive was Crystal Springs Gallery in downtown Hot Springs. The best specimens there were too large for our humble abode, not to mention our Toyota Corolla, but they deserve to be seen, even if you aren't supplying a museum or some billionaire's mansion. Two outstanding specimens include an enormous water-clear crystal cluster that must have involved several hundred pounds of perfectly formed, unbroken Quartz crystals and a huge green Apophyllite cluster from India bigger than most coffee tables.

We dined at the Stillwater Grill. My red pasta sauce had a fruit salsa-like tinge that was absolutely delicious. The tomatoes were minced, not chopped, but it was more than that -- I think you would need to use very fresh, very sweet tomatoes of some special variety.

snapshot of the never-ending federal rehabilitation of bathhouse row in hot springs, 
arkansas

Part Four, DeGray Resort and the Eastern Screech Owl, is coming soon.

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