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i mean more crumbling old turrets than you can shake a stick at

2006-10-20 - 5:14 p.m.

all photos © 2006 by elaine radford

the mandatory japanese tourist couple, here under a romantic umbrella in a light drizzle at el morro

Today we poked around the scenic forts of old San Juan. Most impressive. I will have to hope that my pictures came out, because words can't do justice to the size and picturesque-atude of these forts guarding from attack from a turquoise sea.

el perla, which boasts that it's the most scenic slum in the world, don't worry, it is well signed, so you won't stumble in by accident

Even the slum "La Perla" was picturesque -- the guidebook boasted it was the most scenic in the world. However, if you squinted a bit, you soon noticed that each painted, peeling tenement no matter what artistic color had its own over-sized old-fashioned satellite dish. Since the guidebook said that the inhabitants live by their wits and their crimes, I'm going to guess that none of them are actually paying the bills for their service.

detail, from the huge fort complex at san christobal

It's a bit intimidating because, to be honest, I think San Juan is much more impressive than New Orleans. Poor old Fort Jackson isn't really a pimple on the butt of scenic compared to these. But I cheered myself with the thought that we have better (or at least more) birds!

The people are extremely friendly and helpful too. All you have to do is look a bit puzzled, and it seems like people are emerging from the shadows to give directions and/or suggestions.

detail, door, old san juan, one of my favorite images of the trip, i was lucky to be set up to snap the photo just as the man emerged from the door

Down a blue-cobblestoned street, with buildings painted every pastel color, we saw an Italian flag and slipped into Venezia with its Murano glass light fixtures to enjoy a refreshing beverage. I had a glass of red wine, while D. went for the local Medalla beer.

As we rode the scenic little trolley from Fort Cristobal to El Morro, D. nudged me in the side and I caught a glimpse of three birds on a fence with bright white cheek patches -- Java Sparrows. I sensed his skepticism as I named them at a glance. However, later in the afternoon, several of them flew in onto a bare branch and perched to give us both great looks at this classic introduction from Bali.

Near El Morro, we peeped into the old insane asylum, now a school of sculpture, hoping to see some young artists at work. The school was being remodeled, and we saw no budding Rodins -- but a low-flying adult Red-Tailed Hawk burst out right over me, two angry small birds (I'm thinking our friends the Grackles) hot on its heels.

At San Cristobal I also saw a juvenile Magnificent Frigatebird, so I have now hit the trifeca on this trip for the MAFR plumages.

Yeah, I know I have two entries exactly the same from yesterday. I don't know why. Figuring it out will have to wait until I get back.

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