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coastal maine trip report part 2: where stephen king learned to spin a tall tale?

2008-06-12 - 4:35 p.m.

all photos � 2008 by elaine radford

lobster bouys
lobster bouys, detail, jonesport

OK, so I stand corrected. I took a second look at the Wiscasset sign, and it's Maine's "prettiest village," not Maine's "most beautiful town." And modest too.

We took a scenic and atmospheric drive through rolling hills and any number of pretty/beautiful towns. At one point, we stopped by a hoity toity used bookstore that specialized in art books. The proprietor spotted DH's turquoise pendant and promptly showed off the huge chunk of polished but otherwise uncut turquoise in his display. Sleeping Beauty Mine? In any case, most impressive. Two large windows in one room were filled with cobalt blue glass. In the room of Christian books there was a large collection of crosses, including several Coptic pieces from Ethiopa. And I mean large pieces. In the Zen room, I opened a translation from Milarepa and read, "I am enlightened but I must feed this filthy body." I'm paraphrasing here, as Milarepa and his translator are far more supple with words than I am.

I saw a copy of an out of print book that I own, Rock Crystal Treasures --priced at a mere $95. Yikes. Good thing I keep it on a high shelf.

We lunched at a diner called Just Barb's, where I feasted on the fried clams. They were self-proclaimed the best in the county or the best in Maine or the best in somewhere (and, of course, modest too) but I don't remember the particulars. They were certainly very good but I wouldn't have objected to some Tabasco sauce to go with.

Just as we'd passed our zillionth antique store and I was wondering if there were any of the old school rock shops left, we suddenly arrived at a huge yellow sign announcing ROCK SHOP. A beautiful place, filled with fine specimens, especially of Maine tourmaline. There was a log of watermelon tourmaline almost as long as my arm and certainly thicker around. I was afraid to ask the price, but I could tell from the prices on lesser specimens that I'm competing with rich Wall Street brokers for the goodies here. Well worth the stop just to see them though.

The shopkeeper mentioned that he'd been watching some Ospreys, and not much further down the road we had a flyover, perhaps from one of the very birds in question.

Mmm, the locals, they are very excited about the new penobscot narrows bridge, and it comes complete with a scenic overlook to snap pictures of it. You can buy tickets to go up in the top of one of the towers, but we didn't.

At some point we arrived at our B&B in Jonesport. The place is spectacular, with huge windows overlooking the rocky harbor filled with colorful lobster boats. We're also the only folks here. Alas, as I mentioned in a previous entry, Captain Norton fell ill and had to cancel his puffin tours for the season. I think, in turn, that most of the tourists then canceled their stay in the town altogether. However, we were able to re-schedule with the other puffin tour boat captain, so we'll just get an early start tomorrow and still get the puffins. And meanwhile we can kick back and enjoy our HUGE luxury accommodations. In fact, right now, I'm looking out one of the windows over the harbor as I type. Yes, a B&B with a free horizontal surface that isn't completely covered with bric a brac. That might be the most amazing thing yet.

jonesport harbor
jonesport harbor from our B&B window

We had dinner in a colorful restaurant, Tall Barney's, where DH consumed a 2-1/2 pound steamed lobster. I wasn't that hungry, after the clams at lunch. Maybe tomorrow. I think we also overheard more private information about some of the local diners than they would want me to share on the fabulous internets. But people in Maine have an odd sense of humor that reminds me a bit of the English, so I can't tell how much of these stories are just put-on and deliberately meant to scandalize the tourist.

There's a small snifter of a curious beverage that was left in our room. Is it the coffee brandy mentioned on the virtualtourist website? I'm almost afraid to find out.

Hey, I did say "almost."

B and B bedroom
bedroom, harbor house b&b, jonesport

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