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2004-06-12 - 7:39 a.m. Note: This page is part one of my trip to England. For my bird list and photos, click right here. For a short photo essay on the colorful London cabs, click right here.
May 27, 2004We flew to London via Detroit. Our long layover at DTW gave us the opportunity to see three House Sparrows living in the trees at the Detroit airport -- three more than we would see in all of London.
![]() Since we spent the night on the plane, where it was impossible to sleep because 1) they forgot to turn off the lights in the cabin, or perhaps the lights were jammed so they wouldn't go off, despite customer complaints, and 2) they came by constantly with food and drink, we were a bit weary and glad to be greeted by lots of sunshine when we landed in London. We took a long walk around the parks of the Belgravia area, exploring most particularly Green Park and St. James Park, and passing Buckingham Palace and various monuments any number of times in our rambles.
![]() I felt a bit sad, remembering when I visited in 1982, that the abundance of the House Sparrow was such that one of the attractions was to stroll in the park and see one of the local eccentrics allow Sparrows to perch over his entire body. Now they are Red-Listed -- an endangered species -- for the area, and we didn't see so much as a feather. D. had heard much about the famous Indian restaurants of London, and we picked one called the Buckingham Balti House, where we enjoyed two different kinds of well-spiced chicken.
![]() May 28, 2004Today we took the "Big Bus" tour of London, which allowed you to hop on and off the sightseeing bus all day, and which also included a free boat ride on the Thames River. We pretty much saw it all -- the Tower, Trafalgar Square, Piccaddilly Circus, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Westminister Abbey, and the Marble Arch under plastic because it is being restored. We all know what London looks like, so I'll try not to inflict too many photos on my picture hosting, but I can't resist including a few, so if anyone is reading this on a dial-up modem, they are probably cursing and gnashing their teeth by now.
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![]() We had to set priorities, so we concentrated on the Renaissance artists. The mystery of "The Ambassadors," 1583, by Hans Holbein the Younger, captured our attention with its photo-realistic detail broken by the distorted skull in the foreground of the painting. The meaning of the piece is said to be unknown. I have to confess that I suspect a little bit of show-boating -- I can paint everything exactly as it appears to the human eye but if I wanted to I could just as well paint things as they could never exist. Here's a link to the National Gallery's page about the painting, but it doesn't even give a hint of true weirdness of this piece in person, where you can see every thread in the fabric.
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May 29, 2004What is a diary without some bitching and moaning? Today is the day we set out for our cottage in the country, only to discover that 1) it wasn't where we were told it was, 2) the bus no longer went all the way to where it wasn't, so we actually ended up stranded in a third location, and 3) when the taxicab driver finally figured out where to actually deliver us, we found ourselves way out in the way out without a telephone. So much for the plan to call up a taxi or a rental car to be delivered to our cottage as needed. As for our friends, who claimed to be able to drive British style, I'm sorry to say that their confidence exceeded their abilities. We may as well skip ahead and confess that the car was totalled by Wednesday evening, fortunately without any injury to anyone. In theory it was possible to walk to and from the nearest village with actual stores and pubs in a mere 7 mile round-trip; in practice, the confusion of cryptically signed footpaths meant we could (and did) wander for hours without getting much of anywhere. Sigh. Long bitter sigh. And that's enough of the bitching. On the positive side, after the bus dumped us bag and baggage at Cirencester at what clearly wasn't a bus station or transfer point, a taxicab driver kindly took the time out of his schedule to phone around until he found someone with the time to help us locate our cottage. The courtesy of the British people never fails to astound me. People in Louisiana are friendly and fast with a smile, but English people truly go out of their way to help strangers. Anyway, our cottage turned out to be not 2 miles from Stow-on-the-Wold as advertised (I'm guessing it was more like 7 or 8 miles) but 3.5 miles from Moreton-in-Marsh. Had we known our actual destination, we could have taken the train and reached our destination at a fraction of the time and cost. I still have a print-out of the internet ad for the cottage, and there is no getting around the fact that it's a remarkable work of short fiction.
![]() We all had dinner together at the Marshmallow House in Moreton, where most of us enjoyed the roast duck with cherry sauce and indulged in the Villa Rosci 2002 Merlot from Chile.
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