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2004-02-07 - 8:54 a.m. This is part one based on my handwritten diary created during my visit to Kenya in January 2004 as part of a Raptours group headed by Bill Clark, author of A Field Guide to the Raptors of Europe, The Middle East, and North Africa as well as several other leading raptor guides. For the bird list from that trip, please click here.
� 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved A full moon was setting in the west, a red sunrise blazed in the east, and in the direction of the airport BF and I could see Norco venting huge amounts of natural gas. Little Vs of Double-Crested Cormorants crossed the lake. BF dropped me off at D's, and we spent the morning in search of D's Lariam. Then onward to the airport. Jan. 8, 2004 Our flight to Amsterdam was remarkable for the free-flowing Skyy Vodka and Chilean wine. It was even more remarkable for the abysmal food served with metal knives. Since I don't believe the boxcutter theory -- the tape released by Cleveland Air Traffic Control makes it clear that the hijackers at least on United Flight 93 had a bomb and there is little doubt in my mind that the whole boxcutter story was created to reduce the airlines' legal liability -- I wasn't afraid of being hijacked by crazed passengers wielding knives, but I was a trifle concerned that someone despondent over the unspeakable food might take their own life. Still it seems odd that you go through security with guards confiscating tweezers and manicure scissors only to be issued a knife on the airplane itself. Be that as it may, with a stiff tail wind, we landed in the Netherlands without incident an hour early. Unfortunately, instead of being able to deplane, we had to sit in line waiting for a gate, so we didn't end up saving any time. The first bird seen out of the window of the airplane was the Rock Dove or Feral Pigeon as it is called when we are being European. The next birds seen were House Sparrow and Mallard. The driver -- called the chauffeur in the Netherlands, where they don't know we think that word pretentious -- reminded me of classic stories of New York City cab drivers. He drove like a maniac and laughed aloud when D. hurriedly strapped on his seatbelt and shoulder harness. He also had an opinion on every topic and was ready to fix the evils of the world if only the world would listen. For instance, he pointed out the bike paths with pride, making some comment to the point that we could probably have bike paths in America too if the rich paid taxes. Then he inveighed against the U.S. dollar -- "toilet tissue" -- and our poor leadership which resulted in same. Hey, I agree, but what the heck does he expect me to do about it? It must have been fairly widely reported in Europe that only nine votes were counted, and I can guarantee that mine wasn't one of them.
� 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved D. spotted a Great Egret but I'm troubled that it may be a Great Egret hitching post. Tomorrow I hope to check by daylight to be sure. In a cozy restaurant, I enjoyed a Heinecken in its natural environment before an excellent dinner. Jan. 9, 2004 It was still dark at 8 A.M. with the full moon and a bright planet (perhaps Saturn?) glowing in the west. I realize that Saturn is not usually so bright, but it seemed too high for Venus, and I had heard that Saturn is unusually bright at the moment. I will have to look it up when I get a chance. Again we strolled among the picturesque houses punctuated by the many canals. Poor D. His egret proved to be a statue. We also met geese and a Black Swan that asked for bread. Sadly, we came unprepared. I had read that Black Swan was introduced to the Netherlands, but as it was associating with the geese, who wore bands, I suspect that it was someone's pet, and I won't be counting Black Swan on my life list just yet. In the afternoon we learned the bus system and went into the center of Amsterdam, where we strolled around the historic old buildings and got somewhat oriented. There are Argentine steakhouses everywhere, and we enjoyed a good steak in one of them along the way. Jan. 10, 2004 An all-day flight to Nairobi. Despite the early hour, our driver was in full form as he took us to the airport and informed us in colorful terms that Mormons have serious hang-ups. I do hope he realizes that only a tiny minority of Americans are Mormons! We are from New Orleans and may have seen a scantily clad girl or a baggie of herb offered for sale from time to time, although admittedly not under any government license. For this leg of the journey the vodka was Absolut and the wine South African but the food alas no better. We arrived after dark, which thankfully made it impossible for my first bird of Africa to be a Feral Pigeon. � 2004 by Elaine Radford I awoke around 5:30, while it was still dark. I could hear a bird singing, and I hurried to catch it in my binoculars before it was too late. I suspected a thrush and soon located my first bird of Africa in the tree outside my hotel window -- a lustily singing Olive Thrush, which reminded me a bit of our American Robin. We spent the whole day at Nairobi National Park. At the entrance, we were greeted by a large troop of olive baboons. It was almost too much to absorb. We saw 20 raptor species: a huge crocodile rolling its prey in the water; a cute Common Ostrich family complete with mommy, daddy, and little ones; Syke's and Vervet monkey troops including an adorable mother Vervet nursing a baby who came right up to the vehicle. � 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved Here's the mammal list:
� 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved
� 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved There was also a huge list of other birds. I don't think I have the energy to keep typing up each day's complete bird list, but since it was the first day, and so many of these birds were lifers, I might as well post today's list to give you an idea of the overwhelming impact of seeing so many new birds.
� 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved From the second floor of the hotel, D. and I studied a tree hopping with confusing weavers. At first we thought it was hopeless, and then a pair of adult male and female Baglafecht Weavers posed together, and it all seemed to snap into focus. We also feel that we saw several Village (also known as Black-Headed) Weavers, but unluckily the guides didn't see them, so we couldn't get confirmation. After breakfast, we visited Lamura Pond, where we added several new species, most notably Gray Crowned Crane (which cooperated nicely by flying overhead once we'd observed it long enough strolling about in the scope), Maccoa Duck, and African Spoonbill. The Little Grebe with its powderpuff rear end was an amusing sight.
� 2004 by DD, all rights reserved Closer to Nairobi, in a field pocked by aardvark holes, we encountered a surprisingly tolerant young Black-Breasted Snake Eagle. Alas, my camera was already acting up -- my battery charger had not worked properly even in Aalsmeer -- but I just focused on getting so close to this calm, magnificent raptor rather than worrying about my "battery dead" message. Along the way we noticed evidence of a leopard -- a dead Thompson's gazelle dragged up into a tree -- but we didn't see the leopard itself. The day's new raptors were Mountain Buzzard and Eastern Chanting Goshawk. Other notable new birds include the very impressive Kori Bustard. To read Part Two of my Kenya diary, click right here.
� 2004 by Elaine Radford, all rights reserved
All Rights Reserved, Copyright 2002-2017 by Elaine Radford
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