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part 7 of the great bolivian parrot tour: hyacinth macaws get freaky with it

2011-05-01 - 7:44 a.m.


all photos � 2011 by elaine radford

Sunday, April 17, 2011, San Matias Reserve, Bolivia

You have reached Part 7 of the incredible Bolivian parrot tour. To start at the beginning, you may want to follow these links:

So, the Bolivian Pantanal is 80 or 90% flooded -- I forget which. Let's just say that it's mostly flooded. Here at the end of rainy season, the marsh is quite high. Forget about splashing around in rubber boots like we did in Beni to find the Blue-Throated Macaw. Here, if you want to get away from the ranch, you've got to ride a horse.

Well, horses are not hard to find, since the park is also a working cattle ranch. I don't remember the last time I was on a horse, but maybe when I was 10? I assured everyone involved that I remembered nothing about it. "Give me the oldest, slowest horse," I said.

They also put my horse on a string, after the lead horse. In that way, I didn't have to figure out how to steer the horse. He just followed the leader.

However, my horse was just a teensy bit passive-aggressive. He knew very well that I was a noob to horseback riding, and he would somehow find a way to stroll through the forest in such a way that I'd be running smack-dab into various ill-placed branches if I didn't watch out. Good thing I was wearing my hat and sunglasses!

A large flock of Snail Kites set out in the morning. Parrot Guy said that once he'd seen a flock of 500 though, right at his house, so I guess we can't touch that. I was pretty impressed with what we had, though. I forgot to note how many, but it was a lot.

We found some Black Howler Monkeys, but they were not howling, and perhaps it was just as well.

Plenty of tapir footprints but we never saw the Tapir. I had to settle on taking the tapir's footprint for proof of life.

We'd been completely stiffed on Hummingbirds this trip, but finally we broke the ice. There was some kind of parasitic plant, with long tubular red flowers, that was clinging to tree-tops around eye level or a little higher all over the place. These flowers were the bait that drew in large numbers of Gilded Hummingbirds, a life bird for me. I was interested to see that, very often, we saw two Gilded Hummingbirds to a tree -- and they weren't fighting. They were perched. Must be the male and female, we decided, and what else can it be? Not that male and female hummingbirds sit around tolerating each other in America. But maybe it was their day to be in the mood...I didn't see any display dances or mating though. Perhaps they preferred to wait until the spying eyes of birders were otherwise occupied.

A favorite lifer of the day was Pale-Crested Woodpecker, with its notable blonde crest. The Scaly-Headed Pionus/Parrot, with its bright red vent, was a lifer that provided more of a humor note. When I first looked in the scope, my eye didn't make out the five Scaly-Heads sitting there, because their colorful patterns actually created an illusion that the bright red vents were flowers in the trees. Of course, once I realized what I was seeing, I had a very nice look.

We rode back for lunch and a siesta. It was hot, hot, hot! I got my life Red-Billed Scythebill from the porch, an impressive bird with a bill that did look very much indeed like a long bright red scythe. It was using it to dig well into a dark hole in the big tree nearest the ranch-house, and once I saw it withdraw quite a large insect, maybe a moth of some kind, judging from the shape of the wings.

The Cattle Tyrants back in Beni department mostly tyrannized the empty roadways, but these Cattle Tyrants often road piggyback on their choice of cows. I don't know what made one cow particularly choice, but most cows held no Cattle Tyrants, and yet some held three on their backs, and more at their heels. I saw my first Cattle Tyrant riding a pig, which for some reason struck me as absolutely hilarious.

There were two juvenile Rufescent Tiger-Herons hanging around the place. Simply charming. Their striped backs made them look more like "tigers" than their parents.

In the afternoon, S. and I birded on foot, while PG tried again to make some sound recordings that didn't have mooing cattle in the background. I enjoyed the cuteness of two different White-Wedged Piculet pairs working on small, ropy tree branches or vines, hammering away as intently as a bigger woodpecker would on a "real" branch or trunk. We added Plain-Crowned Spinetail to my life list. I tried to photograph some Monk Parakeets on their colony nests.

However, the afternoon truly belonged to the Hyacinth Macaws. We observed two pairs, at least, because part of the time we could actually see both pairs at one time. I was again struck by the affection these birds have for their mates. If one bird flies, the mate will soon follow. One of the pairs was mostly eating the palm nuts that they like, although they stayed close together.

The second pair was out-and-out petting and courting each other. They chased a bit, but flirtatiously, and not very far. Soon, they found a bare branch where they could do the usual bird dance of one bird squats and begs, and the other bird feeds the one begging, and pretty soon they're play-kissing each other, and it's just too adorable. Eventually, they flew to a higher branch, that was also bare, and they began to dance, play-kiss, and then to actually mate.

Wow. That's right. I was watching Hyacinth Macaws do the dirty deed in public. You just can't top that.

The List--lifers in bold

  1. Blue-Throated Piping-Guan
  2. Southern Screamed
  3. Black-Bellied Whistling-DuckRufescent Tiger-Heron
  4. Black-Crowned Night-Heron
  5. Striated Heron
  6. Cocoi Heron
  7. Great Egret
  8. Plumbeous Ibis
  9. Buff-Necked Ibis
  10. Jabiru
  11. Wood Stork
  12. Limpkin
  13. Turkey Vulture
  14. Black Vulture
  15. Snail Kite
  16. Crane Hawk -- alas, a Better View Desired for this one
  17. Savanna Hawk
  18. Black-Collared Hawk
  19. Southern Caracara
  20. Wattled Jacana
  21. Southern Lapwing
  22. Pale-Vented Pigeon
  23. Ruddy Ground-Dove
  24. Picui Ground-Dove
  25. Scaled Ground-Dove
  26. Gray-Fronted Dove
  27. Hyacinth Macaw -- obvious courtship/mating behavior seen
  28. Golden-Collared Macaw
  29. Peach-Fronted Parakeet
  30. Monk Parrot
  31. Yellow-Chevroned Parakeet
  32. Scaly-Headed Parrot
  33. Squirrel Cuckoo
  34. Greater Ani
  35. Smooth-Billed Ani
  36. Guira CUckoo
  37. Gilded Hummingbird
  38. Blue-Crowned Trogon
  39. White-Wedged Piculet
  40. White Woodpecker
  41. Campo Flicker
  42. Pale-Crested Woodpecker
  43. Red-Billed Scythebill
  44. Rufous Hornero
  45. Chotoy Spinetail
  46. Plain-Crowned Spinetail
  47. Common Tody-Flycatcher
  48. Vermilion Flycatcher
  49. Cattle Tyrant
  50. Great Kiskadee
  51. Tropical Kingbird
  52. Dusky-Capped Flycatcher
  53. Black-Tailed Tityra
  54. Rufous-Browed Peppershrike
  55. Thrushlike Wren
  56. Masked Gnatcatcher
  57. Rufous-Bellied Thrush
  58. Chalk-Browed Mockingbird
  59. Hooded Tanager--both male and female seen
  60. Sayaca Tanager
  61. Purple-Throated Euphonia
  62. Grassland Yellow-Finch
  63. Red-Crested Finch
  64. Red-Crested Cardinal
  65. Yellow-Billed Cardinal
  66. Crested Oropendula
  67. Troupial
  68. Epaulet Oriole
  69. Chopi Blackbird
  70. Bay-Winged Cowbird

You have just read part 7 of my great Bolivian macaw adventure, Hyacinth Macaws go wild! And, wait, there's more...coming right up in part 8.

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