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part three: gloucestershire trip report

2004-06-14 - 6:03 a.m.

Note: You can read part one of my England trip by clicking right here. Part two is right here. The bird list/photos are here, and the taxicab photos are here. Don't forget to check out Evesham Abbey, the breath-taking Worcester Cathedral, and a day trip to Bath.

wild deer, there were two of them but the other hopped out of the photo

All photos © 2004 by Elaine Radford

June 2, 2004

The days are long this time of year in southern England. We could hear the birds start tuning up for the dawn chorus around 4 A.M. and there was plenty of light by 4:30. Today D. and I decided to slip out early for a dawn chorus stroll. We heard a lot more than we saw. Some of the more challenging birds (warblers? chiffchaff? who knows) escaped smugly unidentified despite good looks. The song of the cuckoo amused us; it really did sound like a cuckoo clock going, cuckoo, cuckoo.

mustard fields around Aston Magna

Here's the list roughly in order of first appearance:

  1. Blackbird
  2. Swift
  3. Pheasant
  4. Chaffinch
  5. Wood Pigeon
  6. Mistle Thrush
  7. Cuckoo, heard only
  8. Carrion Crow
  9. Eurasian Collared Dove
  10. Pied Wagtail
  11. Blue Tit
  12. Long-Tailed Tit
  13. Great Tit
  14. House Sparrow
  15. Magpie
  16. Greenfinch
  17. Song Thrush
  18. Robin

There were lots and lots of rabbits, but we only caught a glimpse of the small fox with its long bushy tail dashing across our path.

After a rest, we hiked to Moreton-in-Marsh, where we encountered a Kestrel kiting attractively overhead. Later a Common Buzzard soared lazily over the town.

market tolls for moreton-in-marsh

The Victorians had their rubbings, and we have our cameras. We poked around a picturesque old graveyard for quite some time, enjoying the quiet and wondering about the days gone by that could only be hinted at in the restrained British epitaphs.

gravestone, moreton-in-marsh, england

By this time, it had emerged that we had philosophical differences about food with our friends. They wanted to eat from fast food places and the grocery store, and we wanted to explore the famed British pubs. To make up for lost time, D. and I visited not one but two pubs this day -- the Resesdale Arms where we sampled the Courageous Directors Bitters and the Swan Inn, where we tried the Wadworth 6X. There was a TV studio across the street from the Resesdale Arms, and I wonder if this had some influence on the ironic name of their bitters, which featured a large golden chicken on its seal. Hmmm.

Although the Resesdale Arms was a "17th century coaching inn," it also featured fusion food, and we returned for a terrific dinner. I'm afraid I went a little overboard with the stuffed rainbow trout and the Bailey's and white chocolate cheesecake, but it was well worth it. D. clocked us at having walked around 12 or 13 miles that day, but I was pretty much flying home over the golden fields after all that ale.

A pretty sight on the way back -- a hot air balloon sailing overhead and two wild Quail running across the road.

abandoned church and graveyard somewhere within walking distance 
of aston magna

June 3, 2004

We explored a new path through the Aston Magna area, discovering a pond with a noisy flock of watchful Lapwings and a charming thatched house with roses growing up the walls. There was an abandoned church and graveyard nearby. At a roadside stand, we lunched on chicken breast on a "bap" -- you might know it better as a bun -- and "to-MAH-to." In the evening, we hiked to Naunton, along the way encountering a lovesick male Pheasant flirting with a female through a hedge. We also had our best looks yet at a male Kestrel kiting dramatically and then diving. On our return, he was perched, content, at very close range on the telephone wire. Among the interesting structures in Naunton was a 16th century stone dovecote with space for 903 nests.

a classic english garden we found somewhere in the aston magna area

June 4, 2004

I needed to get away so I struck out on my own in the morning. I finally found a butterfly -- I was starting to think England had nothing but cabbage whites -- and I was nearly in touching distance of a deer and a singing Grasshopper Warbler. A magical moment came when I spotted two rabbits "dancing." I don't know if it was a mating ritual or a territorial display. I'll vote for mating, because it looked almost choreographed, like a crane dance, but I'll have to investigate to find out for sure.

I saw a large Cuckoo fledgling but no sign of an adoptive parent. Maybe it was already big enough to take care of itself.

butterfly in gloucestershire, don't know what species

In the evening we went to Chipping Campden, where D. and I enjoyed the Hook Norton Best Bitters at the Volunteer Inn. The owner warned us that we had arrived just in time to be served in a glass because, after 6 P.M. he could only serve in plastic, because "this is the biggest night of the year." As it turned out, it was the night of the Cotswolds Olympics, famous for events such as "shinkicking," which is apparently exactly what it sounds like. We couldn't verify this information for sure, because it was time to meet our friends for the return trip before the evening really got started.

church in naunton

What we did have time for was an excellent dinner at Hicks' Brasserie and Bar, sea bream for me, lamb for D. As the restaurant opened, they played "Ode to Billy Joe," but otherwise they played pseudo-jazzy instrumentals, so I guess they do know what the name "Hicks" implies in America. The food was great, and the atmosphere upscale, so it was amusing to look out the window to see the children running to catch the various shuttles to the fair.

thatched roof house

Note: You have just read part three of my trip report to London and Gloucestershire. The rest of the story is coming soon.

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